Brother Brown’s Underground is a hidden barbecue gem in the heart of downtown Boise. Located in the basement of the historic El Korah Shrine, word of Brother Brown’s unique style of barbecue has been spreading through the Treasure Valley by word of mouth. It’s not easy to find, as owner and pit-master Carlas Brown says. “We’re a little hard to find, people tell me. We’re in the basement of the El Korah Shrine Temple, which is right downtown at 12th and Idaho Streets. I’d love it for everyone to come in and try us out at least once. I don’t advertise very much, it’s mainly word of mouth. I appreciate what the community has done so far”.
Carlas Started barbecuing with a huge, double door smoker he still uses for catering that he calls Number One. It’s a very traditional, hand built stick smoker on a trailer. Several years of catering events and parties gave Carlas the desire to open Brother Brown’s Underground. He explained, We’ve been in business for about a year and a half here down here in Boise, but I’ve been cooking for money since about 2001. I started out in the catering business; I worked at Wells Fargo for a lot of years; and sort of maintained that; and got out of banking here I am! Down in the restaurant business.
Of course, Carlas had some good help to get going and create his own unique style of barbecue. When asked about that style, he responded, I’m from Ohio and people ask me that question all the time. Is it Kansas City Style, or is it Texas Style; and I really don’t have a style for it. My uncle gave me his barbecue recipe before he passed away; and my Dad’s from St. Louis so you can take those two things and put them together and find that it’s a Brother Brown’s Barbecue.
Everything seemed to come together for Carlas as he spent more time barbecuing. When asked about knowing if it is just right, he explained, Pretty much have a feel for it. You know, when it comes to barbecue and smoking the meats, you’ve got to have a passion for it and its got to be a little bit of love. I tell everybody, ‘I use a whole lotta love and a little bit of cayenne’. It tends to work for me, so I just keep doing the same old thing, what I’ve always got.
It took several visits to get a handle on the barbecue at Brother Brown’s Underground. My first visit, I had the pulled pork sandwich. The pork was tender, shredded instead of chopped. That is barbecue done the real way—the slow way, the way it was meant to be done. Brother Browns sauces all his orders although I’m sure if asked you could probably order without sauce if that is to your taste. However, unlike a lot of barbecue, Brother Brown’s sauce is an integral part of the ‘cue. Concocted by Brother Brown himself, this sauce is unlike any others—-it has elements of several different regions but comprises a flavor all its own. Not too sweet and not too vinegary, not too tomatoey, it seems subtle at first taste. Just a little heat shows up. After a minute the heat intensified; not enough to overpower the other spices or seasonings, but enough to tell you that there’s magic going on in that sauce. On that visit, my dining companion got the country rib special which earned high praise.
On another visit, my dining companion got the El Korah Chicken Sandwich. They raved about it as the best chicken sandwich ever, with incredibly moist, delicious chicken. Meanwhile, I had ordered the Pork Spare Ribs, three nice ribs which were perfectly smoked. Biting into them left a perfectly clean bone, the mark of a perfectly cooked rib. The ribs are dry rubbed, smoked and then doused in the sauce and are quite excellent. With ribs as one of my favorites, I rank these in the Top 10.
One day, I just felt like a sandwich. Carlas suggested the Chuck, a polish sausage on a toasted bun, topped with pulled pork, cole slaw and his sweeter, thicker barbecue sauce. He seems to have several different sauces that he has personally created to use on specific items. This was an absolute mess; and well worth it. All the flavors and textures complemented each other, with the nicely grilled polish sausage topped with a good portion of pulled pork and some nice pieces of delicious bark on them. The cole slaw offered a slightly tart, fresh and crispy counterpoint to the others while the sweetness of the barbecue sauce went nicely with the vinegar accent of the cole slaw. This is a sandwich that has to be tried; unique, flavorful and filling.
The sides are plentiful, with either one or two included with each sandwich or meal. The baked beans are quite good and a nice standard barbecue side. My dining companion swore that the Mac and Cheese was one of the best, full of flavor and very creamy. The bacon and onion green beans were a treat, with nice pieces of crispy bacon and sweet onion slices among the green beans. Overall, though, the collard greens seem the epic side, full of flavor and a traditional side that just moved the meal into the awesome category. This is as traditional a barbecue side dish as you can get; and even if you have never had it, it’s worth trying at Brother Brown’s Underground. Other sides include rosemary garlic potatoes and a variety of salads.
Other barbecue specialties include the smoked brisket, tender slices of beef topped with a tasty sauce. It is available as Uncle Wash’s Sandwich or as a Dinner. Another is the Smoked Yardbird Leg Quarter Dinner, served on sourdough and topped with sauce. For those who want something besides barbecue, the menu includes a Tuna Melt, BBLT, burgers, a Gobble, Gobble Club sandwich and even a Cheesy Grilled Cheese. Dinners add such items as Blueberry Granola Meatloaf, Pork Tenderloin and a Garlic and Herb Crusted Grilled Salmon. There are even flame broiled Top Sirloin and Ribeye Steaks for the beef eaters in the crowd.
The staff at Brother Brown’s Underground seems to truly care about pleasing their customers. Service has been excellent every time I have been there. It sounded from chit-chat I overheard from other tables that there are a lot of regulars, so that coupled with the word of mouth advertising means they are doing something right. The prices are very reasonable at Brother Brown’s, offering excellent value for the dollar. After 4pm, the El Korah Bar opens so there is a full cocktail bar available for dinner. All items at Brother Brown’s Underground can be made up for takeout. Dine-in is in comfortable, COVID proactive social distancing tables and booths with staff wearing appropriate masks. As with many places, hours may be changing right now due to Spring/Daylight Saving/COVID changes so it is best to check the Facebook page or call ahead to verify closing time.
Brother Brown’s Underground is definitely worth a visit, whether you are in Downtown Boise for shopping, work or business, or just want to go for some tasty, unique barbecue different from anything else you can find in the Treasure Valley. Having spent time with some of the greatest pit-masters in barbecue such as Myron Mixon and Big Moe Cason, I can say that I enjoyed Brother Brown’s Underground a lot and look forward to exploring their menu some more. It’s true barbecue, from a local pit-master, who, in his own words, uses ‘a whole lotta love and a little bit of cayenne’. Plus a whole lot of passion for bringing delicious, great original barbecue to Boise.
Brother Brown’s Underground
1118 W. Idaho Street
Boise, ID 83702
(208) 249-9218
Brother Brown’s BBQ Catering Website
Ed has lots of knowledge and a knack for making the obscure obvious. He has improved the image of local business by his write-ups. This guy can speak on many different subjects which is what I love about him. He stops in and brings others to enjoy Brother Brown’s Underground, the atmosphere, culture and the food. Thanks again my friend, for your support.
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